Lining, interfacing and interlining, necklines, collars, sleeves, cuffs and Nigerian fashion features

A lining is a layer of fabric cut to the shape of the garment (or part of it) and attached inside so that it covers the inner seams and construction details. It is assembled separately and then joined at edges such as the neckline, armholes, waist or front edges.

Importance of lining

1. Gives a neat, finished inside by hiding seams and raw edges.
2. Helps the garment hang well and retain its shape.
3. Makes the garment easier to put on and take off (slippery linings slide over other clothes).
4. Prevents see-through in sheer and lace fabrics; adds modesty.
5. Reduces creasing and stretching (especially in skirts at the seat).
6. Protects the outer fabric from perspiration and friction.
7. Gives warmth in jackets and coats.
8. Prevents scratchy fabrics (wool, metallic lace, aso-oke) irritating the skin.

Qualities of a good lining fabric

• Smooth and slippery, light weight, opaque enough.
• Durable, colourfast, compatible care with the outer fabric (if the garment is washable, the lining must be too).
• Matching or toning colour; does not show through.
• Antistatic where possible.
• Shrinkage similar to the outer fabric.

Suitable lining fabrics

Satin (acetate or polyester), fine polyester, viscose (Bemberg-type cupro in quality garments), taffeta, silk (luxury), muslin and cotton lawn (cool linings for children’s and casual wear). Nigerian lace gowns and blouses are commonly lined with satin, polyester lining or cotton.

Ways of fixing lining

1. Bag (fully enclosed) method: the lining and garment are joined at edges right sides together, then turned through an opening; used for vests and simple bodices.
2. Separate (free-hanging) lining: lining and skirt joined at the waist only; the lining hem is finished separately about 2.5 cm shorter than the skirt (a 60 cm skirt has a 57.5 cm lining) so that it does not show.
3. Hand-felled lining: lining slip-stitched to facings and hems; tailored jackets.
4. Underlining (mounting): each piece of outer fabric is backed with a lining piece and both are handled as one; adds body to lace and loosely woven fabrics.
5. Drop-in lining: the lining is attached at the neck and armhole facings only.

Lining pieces are usually cut from the garment pattern, slightly shorter, and with a pleat at the centre back of jackets for ease of movement.

Worked example: lining a lace gown

Funmi’s cord-lace gown is see-through and the lace is scratchy. The tailor cuts the lining from the same pattern pieces in polyester satin, 2.5 cm shorter at the hem. The bodice is underlined so the lace and lining move as one, while the skirt lining hangs free from the waist so that it does not pull the lace when she walks. A lapped or invisible zip is inserted through both layers, and the lining is slip-stitched to the zip tape. Result: modesty, comfort, a smooth line and a garment that slips on easily.