Clothing and Textiles · Lesson 9

Pattern types and markings, body measurements, drafting blocks, adaptation, alteration, layout, fabric estimation and fitting

WAECNECO

What the syllabus asks

WAEC: Simple patterns: types (commercial printed and perforated, freehand cutting, drafted and adapted); taking body measurements; pattern making (bodice, skirt, sleeve, shorts); adaptation and alteration; laying and cutting out; fitting garments; fabric estimation. Extends he8.10.

NECO: Simple patterns: types (commercial printed and perforated, freehand cutting, drafted and adapted); taking body measurements; pattern making (bodice, skirt, sleeve, shorts); adaptation and alteration; laying and cutting out; fitting garments; fabric estimation. Extends he8.10.

What you will learn

Describe types of patterns and their merits.
Interpret pattern markings.
Take and record body measurements.
Explain ease and draft a skirt block to scale.
Describe principles of bodice, sleeve and shorts drafting.
Adapt and alter patterns.
Lay out, cut and estimate fabric.
Fit garments and correct faults.

Key points

Pattern types: commercial, drafted, adapted, freehand, draped, graded.
Learn pattern markings and transfer them accurately.
Measure snug and level; record; inches × 2.54.
Ease allows movement; quarter blocks use quarter ease.
Skirt block: rectangle H/4 + 1 by length; waist W/4 + 0.5; darts take the difference.
Sleeve cap about one-third of armhole; bicep + 4 to 5 cm.
Adapt: slash-spread, slash-close, pivot; circle radius W ÷ 2π.
Alter: lengthen by spreading; shorten with half-depth tuck.
Layout: grain parallel to selvedge, largest first, with nap.
Fit: grain, line, ease, set, balance.

Start here: Types of patterns

A pattern is a template, usually of paper, made to the shape of each part of a garment, used as a guide for cutting fabric. A block (sloper) is a basic pattern without style features or seam allowances, made to a person’s measurements, from which styled patterns are developed.

Types of patterns

Commercial patterns: bought in envelopes from pattern companies, in standard sizes.
- Printed patterns: markings (grainlines, darts, notches, cutting and stitching lines) printed on the tissue. Easy to read; most common.
- Perforated patterns: markings shown by holes punched in the paper (small and large perforations); older style, harder to read.
- Multi-size patterns: several sizes nested on one sheet.
Drafted patterns: drawn directly from the individual’s measurements using a drafting system. Accurate fit; teaches pattern principles.
Adapted (developed) patterns: made by changing a block or existing pattern to a new style (moving darts, adding flare).
Freehand cutting: cutting fabric directly from measurements and chalk lines without a paper pattern. Common among Nigerian tailors for buba, sokoto, wrappers and kaftans. Fast, but needs great skill; mistakes waste fabric and cannot be repeated exactly.
Draping (modelling): shaping fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring it to paper; used by designers for complex styles.
Graded patterns: a base pattern enlarged or reduced systematically into a range of sizes for factory production.
Digital patterns: printable PDF patterns and CAD patterns.

Advantages and disadvantages

Type	Advantages	Disadvantages
Commercial	Ready, tested, instructions, many styles	Standard sizes need alteration; cost; may be unavailable locally
Drafted	Fits the individual; reusable block	Time-consuming; needs skill
Freehand	Fast; no paper	Errors costly; inconsistent

Information on a commercial pattern envelope

Style sketches and views, size chart, body measurements, fabric requirements for each view and width, suggested fabrics, notions (zip, buttons, interfacing), number of pattern pieces, and finished garment measurements. Inside: instruction sheet with layouts and steps.

Freehand cutting in Nigerian tailoring

Many roadside tailors cut buba, sokoto and kaftans straight onto folded fabric with chalk, using the customer’s measurements and long experience. A skilled tailor can do this quickly, but errors cannot be traced to a paper pattern and repeated orders vary. Combining freehand skill with a set of personal paper blocks gives speed and consistency.

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Practice questions

1. A block is

a basic pattern without style or seam allowance
a finished garment
a fabric type
a sewing machine part

Show answer

A: a basic pattern without style or seam allowance
Foundation pattern.

2. The grain-line arrow must be placed

across the fabric
on the bias always
anywhere
parallel to the selvedge

Show answer

D: parallel to the selvedge
Keeps grain correct.

3. Hip measurement is taken

at the knee
round the chest
round the fullest part of the hips
at the natural waist

Show answer

C: round the fullest part of the hips
Fullest part.

4. 1 inch equals

1.0 cm
2.54 cm
2.45 cm
3.0 cm

Show answer

B: 2.54 cm
Exact definition.

5. 1 yard equals exactly

0.9144 m
1 m
0.95 m
0.8 m

Show answer

A: 0.9144 m
Exact definition.

Key words

Pattern: Paper template for cutting fabric.
Block: Basic fitted pattern without style.
Drafting: Drawing a pattern from measurements.
Freehand cutting: Cutting without a paper pattern.
Draping: Shaping fabric on a dress form.
Grading: Producing a range of sizes.
Ease: Extra room for movement.
Grainline: Arrow placed parallel to selvedge.
Notch: Matching mark on a seam.
Adaptation: Changing a block to a new style.
Alteration: Changing size or proportion for fit.
Slash and spread: Cutting and opening a pattern to add fullness.

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