Clothing and Textiles · Lesson 7

Darts, tucks, gathers, pleats, smocking, edge finishes, bias binding, openings, fastenings, pockets and waistbands

WAECNECO

What the syllabus asks

WAEC: Sewing processes: arrangement of fullness (types, factors, rules); edge finishes (concept, reasons, edges, types, choice); openings and fastenings; pockets (types, functions, attachment). Extends he8.9.

NECO: Sewing processes: arrangement of fullness (types, factors, rules); edge finishes (concept, reasons, edges, types, choice); openings and fastenings; pockets (types, functions, attachment). Extends he8.9.

What you will learn

Explain reasons and factors for arranging fullness.
Make darts, tucks, gathers, pleats and use elastic.
Calculate fabric needed for gathers, pleats and tucks.
Explain edge finishes and choose them.
Cut bias strips and apply facings and binding.
Describe openings and insert zips.
Select and attach fastenings and calculate button spacing.
Make pockets and bands.

Key points

Fullness: darts, tucks, gathers, pleats, shirring, smocking, elastic.
Choose by fabric, style, figure, purpose and fabric available.
Darts taper to a point; tie threads.
Gathers 1.5–3×; pleat fold of depth d uses 2d.
Edge finishes prevent fraying, strengthen and decorate.
Facings turn inside; binding shows both sides.
Openings: faced slit, continuous strip, zips, fly.
Fastenings: buttons, hooks, press studs, zips, Velcro, ties.
Pockets: patch, inseam, welt, flap, bound.
Waistband length = waist + ease + underlap + seams.

Start here: Arrangement of fullness: meaning, types and factors

The body is curved, but fabric is flat. Fullness is extra fabric that must be controlled so that a garment fits curves (bust, hips, shoulder blades, elbows) or to give a decorative effect. Controlling it is called arranging or disposing of fullness.

Reasons for fullness

To shape flat fabric to body curves (darts at the bust and waist).
To give room for movement (pleats in skirts, gathers at yokes).
For decoration and style (smocking on children’s dresses, frills).
For growth (tucks in children’s clothes that can be released).

Factors to consider in choosing a method

Type of fabric: soft fabrics gather well; crisp fabrics hold pleats; thick fabrics suit darts and pleats rather than gathers.
Style and position: darts for fitted bodices; gathers at waists and yokes; pleats in school skirts.
Wearer’s figure: gathers add bulk, so they are less flattering for a full figure at the hips; darts or unpressed pleats are slimmer.
Purpose of the garment: children’s wear needs ease and growth features.
Fashion.
Care: pleats in cotton need re-pressing; heat-set polyester pleats are permanent.
Amount of fabric available: pleats and gathers use much more fabric.
Skill and time: smocking and pleating are time-consuming.

General rules for working fullness

Mark accurately from the pattern (tailor’s tacks or chalk).
Distribute the fullness evenly unless the style specifies otherwise.
Work fullness before joining the seams that cross it.
Tack and fit before final stitching.
Press correctly: darts over a ham; gathers into the seam, never flattening the gathers themselves; pleats along the folds.
Keep grainlines straight.

Continue this lesson in the free app →

Practice questions

1. A dart is stitched

tapering to a point with tied ends
with reverse stitching at the point
across the fold
with gathers

Show answer

A: tapering to a point with tied ends
Smooth point.

2. A 75 cm waistband with gathering ratio 2 needs skirt width

75 cm
112.5 cm
225 cm
150 cm

Show answer

D: 150 cm
75 × 2.

3. Each knife pleat 3 cm deep uses extra fabric of

9 cm
12 cm
6 cm
3 cm

Show answer

C: 6 cm
2 × depth.

4. Each box pleat with folds 3 cm deep uses extra fabric of

9 cm
12 cm
6 cm
3 cm

Show answer

B: 12 cm
4 × depth.

5. Sheer fabrics such as chiffon are gathered at about

3 times the finished length
1.1 times
1 time
10 times

Show answer

A: 3 times the finished length
More fullness for light fabrics.

Key words

Fullness: Extra fabric controlled for fit or style.
Dart: Stitched wedge fold shaping fabric.
Tuck: Stitched fold parallel to its edge.
Gathers: Fabric drawn up on threads.
Pleat: Fold giving controlled fullness.
Shirring: Rows of gathers, often with elastic thread.
Smocking: Gathers held by embroidery.
Casing: Tunnel for elastic or cord.
Facing: Shaped piece finishing an edge inside.
Binding: Bias strip enclosing an edge.
Under-stitching: Stitching facing to allowances.
Opening: Slit to put on a garment.

Learn Darts, tucks, gathers, pleats, smocking, edge finishes, bias binding, openings, fastenings, pockets and waistbands step by step, free.
The Cara's Tips app teaches every topic from the very basics, with quick checks, worked examples and exam practice. It works offline.
Open this lesson in the free app Download for Android