Clothing and Textiles · Lesson 6

Temporary, permanent and decorative stitches, seams and neatening, hems, knits and difficult fabrics

WAECNECO

What the syllabus asks

WAEC: Sewing processes: stitches (types, classification, uses, rules); seams (types, classification, choice, rules); hems. Extends he8.8.

NECO: Sewing processes: stitches (types, classification, uses, rules); seams (types, classification, choice, rules); hems. Extends he8.8.

What you will learn

Classify stitches and state rules for working them.
Describe temporary, permanent and decorative stitches.
Classify seams and state factors for choosing them.
Make and neaten a plain seam; treat curves and corners.
Describe French, flat-felled, overlaid and piped seams.
Describe types of hems and how to turn up a hem.
Assess seam and stitch quality.
Sew knits, sheers, pile, lace and heavy fabrics.

Key points

Temporary stitches hold and mark; permanent stitches join, neaten, hem, decorate.
Backstitch is strongest; slip hemming is invisible; herringbone gives.
Tailor’s tacks mark two layers at once.
Seam allowance 1.5 cm; seams flat, even, secure, pressed.
French seam for sheer; flat-felled for jeans and shirts.
Neaten by pinking, overcasting, zig-zag, overlocking, edge stitching, binding.
Clip concave, notch convex, trim corners, grade allowances.
Hems: plain, narrow, machine, blind, bound, faced, herringbone.
Cutting length = finished + hem + seam allowances.
Special fabrics need suitable needles, stitches and seams.

Start here: Stitches: meaning, classification and rules

A stitch is one complete movement of a threaded needle into and out of fabric, leaving a loop or length of thread. Stitches hold layers together, finish edges, hold hems and decorate. They are worked by hand or by machine.

Classification of hand stitches

Temporary stitches: used to hold or mark fabric during construction and removed later. Examples: even tacking (basting), uneven tacking, diagonal tacking, tailor’s tacks, thread tracing.
Permanent stitches: remain in the finished article.
- Joining stitches: running, backstitch, half-backstitch, oversewing (whipping), machine straight stitch.
- Neatening (edge-finishing) stitches: overcasting, loop (blanket) stitch, machine zig-zag, overlocking.
- Hemming stitches: hemming (slanting), slip hemming, herringbone, blind hem.
- Decorative (embroidery) stitches: chain, stem, satin, feather, cross, French knot, lazy daisy, fly, couching.
- Fastening stitches: buttonhole stitch, bar tacks, eyelet stitches.

Rules for working stitches

Use a needle and thread suitable for the fabric: fine needle and thread for fine fabrics.
Use a working thread about 45 to 60 cm long (from wrist to elbow and back is a common guide); longer thread tangles and frays.
Thread the needle with the end cut from the reel to reduce twisting.
Begin and fasten off securely: start with a small backstitch or a knot (knots only where hidden), and fasten off with two or three backstitches on the wrong side.
Keep stitches even in size, spacing and tension: neither so tight that they pucker nor so loose that they loop.
Work from right to left (for right-handed workers) unless the stitch requires otherwise.
Use a thimble on the middle finger of the sewing hand.
Use matching thread for permanent stitches and contrasting thread for tacking so it can be seen and removed.
Press work as it progresses.

Exam tip: when asked to “classify stitches”, give the class heading and two named examples under each; a plain list of stitch names without classes scores poorly.

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Practice questions

1. Tacking stitches are

temporary
decorative
permanent
neatening

Show answer

A: temporary
Removed later.

2. The strongest hand stitch for joining is

running stitch
tacking
herringbone
backstitch

Show answer

D: backstitch
Overlapping stitches.

3. A French seam starts with fabric

one layer only
folded on the bias
wrong sides together
right sides together

Show answer

C: wrong sides together
Raw edges enclosed by second row.

4. A French seam in a 1.5 cm allowance uses rows of

0.3 cm then 0.3 cm
0.5 cm then 1.0 cm
1.0 cm then 0.5 cm
1.5 cm then 1.5 cm

Show answer

B: 0.5 cm then 1.0 cm
0.5 + 1.0 = 1.5.

5. Jeans side seams are often

flat-felled
French
piped
tacked

Show answer

A: flat-felled
Strong and flat.

Key words

Stitch: One movement of threaded needle in and out of fabric.
Tacking: Temporary stitch to hold layers.
Tailor’s tack: Loop stitch for marking two layers.
Backstitch: Strong hand stitch with continuous top line.
Slip hemming: Nearly invisible hemming stitch.
Herringbone: Crossed stitch for heavy hems.
Seam: Line where fabric pieces are joined.
Seam allowance: Fabric between stitching and cut edge.
French seam: Seam within a seam enclosing edges.
Flat-felled seam: Strong flat seam with two rows visible.
Overlaid seam: One piece lapped over another.
Clipping: Snipping concave seam allowances.

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