Fibre classification, cotton, linen, wool, silk, regenerated and synthetic fibres, identification tests, blends
WAECNECO
What the syllabus asks
WAEC: Fibre and fabric (meaning of fibre, yarn, fabric; classification; characteristics/properties; identification; combinations: blends and mixtures). Extends he8.2–8.3.
NECO: Fibre and fabric (meaning of fibre, yarn, fabric; classification; characteristics/properties; identification; combinations: blends and mixtures). Extends he8.2–8.3.
What you will learn
- Define fibre, yarn, fabric, staple and filament.
- Classify fibres with examples.
- Describe production and properties of cotton, linen, wool and silk.
- Describe regenerated and synthetic fibres.
- Identify fibres by burning, microscope and chemical tests.
- Relate properties to use and care, including moisture regain.
- Explain blends and mixtures and reasons for them.
- Select fibres for Nigerian conditions and purposes.
Key points
- Fibre → yarn → fabric; staple vs filament.
- Natural: cotton, linen, wool, silk; man-made: viscose, acetate, nylon, polyester, acrylic, elastane.
- Cotton and linen are stronger wet; wool, silk, viscose weaker wet.
- Wool felts because of scales; wash gently in warm water.
- Synthetics are thermoplastic: heat-set pleats, cool iron, melt in fire.
- Burning test: paper (cellulose), hair (protein), melt and bead (synthetic).
- Microscope: convolutions (cotton), nodes (linen), scales (wool), striations (viscose).
- Acetone dissolves acetate; hot caustic soda dissolves wool.
- Moisture regain: polyester 0.4%, cotton 8.5%, wool about 16%.
- Blends improve performance, appearance, cost and care.
Start here: Fibre, yarn and fabric: definitions and fibre requirements
Every fabric begins as fibre. To understand why a lace blouse creases, why a woollen cardigan shrinks or why a polyester shirt feels hot, you must understand fibres.
- Fibre: a fine, hair-like unit, long in relation to its width, that can be spun into yarn. Fibres are either staple (short lengths measured in centimetres, such as cotton and wool) or filament (very long continuous strands measured in metres, such as silk and most synthetic fibres).
- Yarn: a continuous strand of fibres or filaments, held together by twist, used to make fabric or for sewing.
- Fabric: a pliable sheet of material made from yarns or fibres by weaving, knitting, crocheting, lace making, braiding, felting or bonding.
- Textile: a general term for fibres, yarns and fabrics and products made from them.
Properties a fibre must have to be useful for textiles
- Length: long enough to be spun; most cotton staple is about 2 to 4 cm, and fibres shorter than about 1 cm are hard to spin.
- Strength (tenacity): able to withstand spinning, weaving and wear.
- Flexibility: able to bend repeatedly without breaking.
- Fineness: fine fibres give soft, smooth yarns.
- Cohesiveness: ability to cling together during spinning; the twists of cotton and the scales and crimp of wool help.
- Uniformity of length and diameter for even yarn.
- Elasticity and resilience (ability to spring back).
- Absorbency for comfort, and dyeability.
Staple and filament compared
| Staple fibres | Filament fibres |
|---|---|
| Short; must be spun with twist | Continuous; may need little twist |
| Hairy, matt yarns; warm, soft | Smooth, lustrous yarns |
| Cotton, wool, flax, cut synthetic staple | Silk, filament nylon, filament polyester |
Synthetic filaments can be cut into staple lengths so that they can be blended with cotton or wool: that is how polyester-cotton yarn is made.
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Practice questions
- seed (plant) fibre
- bast fibre
- protein fibre
- synthetic fibre
Show answer
A: seed (plant) fibre
From the cotton boll.
- jute
- sisal
- kapok
- flax
Show answer
D: flax
Flax stems give bast fibre.
- nylon
- polyester
- wool
- cotton
Show answer
C: wool
Scales cause felting.
- polyester
- wool
- cotton
- acetate
Show answer
B: wool
Protein fibres smell like hair.
- melts and forms a hard bead
- burns like paper with soft ash
- does not change
- smells of vinegar
Show answer
A: melts and forms a hard bead
Thermoplastic.
Key words
- Staple
- Short fibre length.
- Filament
- Continuous fibre.
- Ginning
- Separating cotton lint from seed.
- Retting
- Rotting flax stems to free fibres.
- Scouring
- Washing grease from wool.
- Sericulture
- Rearing silkworms.
- Reeling
- Unwinding silk from cocoons.
- Degumming
- Removing sericin from silk.
- Spinneret
- Nozzle that forms man-made filaments.
- Thermoplastic
- Softens and melts with heat.
- Pilling
- Small balls of fibre on fabric surface.
- Moisture regain
- Water held as % of dry weight.
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